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Valentino designer a fashion casualty
For the second time in her brief career, the young fashion designer has been fired by a luxury brand. And both times she was replaced by a handbag designer.
Several years ago when Tom Ford left Gucci, Facchinetti was given the reins as creative director. Only a few months in, she was let go and replaced by Frida Giannini, a designer from the accessories department.
But Facchinetti landed another great gig as the first designer to step into Valentino's shoes after his official retirement. After presenting her second readytowear collection for Valentino last Friday during Paris fashion week, the axe fell. Facchinetti was out and once again her successors will be two longtime accessories designers at the label.
Fashion has a reputation for being genteel, but the business of fashion is not so pretty.
Facchinetti learned through the papers that she had lost her job. As she told the International Herald Tribune: "It was with deep regret that I learnt from the press that I would no longer be working with Valentino. This news came as a great surprise, since the company's top management has not yet seen fit to inform me of the above."Facchinetti's is just one a of string of highprofile departures as companies hire and fire designers with little consideration for feelings or spoiled reputations. Various reasons are bandied about, from creative differences to flat sales.
The bottom line: designers who don't succeed instantly are often tossed aside. Unpack, settle in, paint their new office? Maybe in another era. In some cases, designers have barely sharpened their scissors before being tossed to the curb.
Designer Lars Nilsson, who took over at Gianfranco Ferre after the designer died last year, was shown the door before he even presented his first runway show.
The pressure on designers to keep the cash registers ringing is immense. And often they are only given one chance a single collection that must fly out of stores.
There was a muchanticipated relaunch of the Halston collection this year, due mostly to the fact that movie mogul Harvey Weinstein, Jimmy Choo owner Tamara Mellon and Hollywood stylist Rachel Zoe were all behind the project. However, designer Marco Zanini was fired after only one season, despite reports the collection was performing well. Perhaps he was doomed from the beginning, having to work under the weight of those largerthanlife egos.
Stella McCartney left Chlo in 2001 to start her own label, and the house is now on its third designer. Mind you, one of her most popular successors, Phoebe Philo, left of her own accord to look after her young family.
But just this season, it was announced that Philo is returning to the fashion world as designer at Celine. The incumbent designer there, Ivana Omazic, had to keep her chin up as the news broke and she soldiered on to present her final collection for Celine last week.
Sometimes designers get fired from their namesakes. Designers, including Herve Leger and Ines de la Fressange, have sold their names to companies which then turned around and let the designer go. The companies still owned the brand, however, and the designers have had to watch as their label survived without them.
But in every nightmare there is a glimmer of hope. Designers can find solace in the great firings that turned into something good.
Marc Jacobs laughed all the way to the bank after Perry Ellis tossed him in 1992 for producing his infamous grunge collection. Now he's considered fashion royalty, with his design gig at Louis Vuitton and at the collection that bears his name all bankrolled by parent company LVMH. Chances are if he were still toiling at Perry Ellis, he would never have achieved the worldwide recognition he enjoys today.
Designer Alber Elbaz also basks in the sweet aura of revenge. After being ousted from Yves Saint Laurent to make way for Tom Ford, Elbaz landed at Lanvin, where he revived the dusty French house to critical and commercial success. At a Lanvin show,[url=http://nikefreetilbud.hcslnet.com]nike free tilbud[/url], you can feel the admiration in the room wild applause, standing ovations as the little Charlie Chaplinesque designer takes his shy bow.